Dale's Herringbone

This post shows how a Herring-Bone Panel is designed and built. Dale is a Level 1 student and has only been laying bricks since Sept '09

Photo taken 19th May '10

Photo taken 5th May '10

This consists of bricks which are laid at 90 degrees to each other, but at 45 degrees to the horizontal plane. Such patterns may be laid vertically or horizontally

Image and text from: Nash (1988) Brickwork Vol 2 pg 76

When panels are being built with herringbone bond, great care should be taken to ensure that each pattern is kept truly level and plumb. This is done by ensuring that all of the angles are maintained in a straight lines

Image and text from:
Hodge (2006) Brickwork for Apprentices pg 96

Note the method for setting out the herring-bone bonds

This ensures cut bricks of the same size on all sides of the panel

For a small panel, the setting out must commence from the centre

For a long narrow area, the setting out can begin from the bottom

Image and text from: BDA (2005) Guide to Successful Brickwork pg 138

Build the surrounding brickwork accurately to the correct height, level, plumb and gauge. Ensure the tops of the reveals are at the same level.

Keep the opening width constant for the whole height. This is best done with a Pinch-Rod rather than relying on the plumbing.

Image and text from: BDA (2005) Guide to Successful Brickwork pg 138

On the board, mark horizontal, vertical and 45° lines through the centre point. This gives the position of the first bricks to be placed in the setting-out process.

Starting with two bricks, place all the bricks dry and accurately on the board. Any inaccuracy at this stage will be reflected in the built panel.

Image and text from: BDA (2005) Guide to Successful Brickwork pg 138

Next, transfer the outline of the board to the bottom and two sides of the dry bricks and cut the bricks to shape.

Photo taken 22nd April '10

To ensure accuracy, each cut-brick was numbered and returned to the board. The bricks were then removed as the panel was built

Photo taken 22nd April '10

After cutting the bricks to shape, place a gauge rod (cut to the width of the opening) along the bottom of the dry panel and mark the position of the cut bricks. Use the gauge rod as a template to position the bricks in the first course.

Image and text from: BDA (2005) Guide to Successful Brickwork pg 140

The laying of herringbone bond must be controlled at an angle of 45°. Traditionally a ‘boat level’ and 45° set square were used, but ‘boat levels’ are now available with adjustable vials

Photo taken 23rd April '10

Notice the position of the string line. This ensures each brick is laid accurately to gauge, level and plumb

Weep-holes were used, when setting-out this panel, to provide an accurate 10mm gap for all the mortar joints

Photo taken 23rd April '10

The BDA book also recommends the following:

Run a level line to control the top of each course. Lay the last row temporarily and mark them with a chalk line, level with the top of the reveals, and cut accurately.

Ensure mortar is of the right consistency to avoid staining from wet mortars and so that the bricks can be gently ‘rubbed’ into position.

Tapping or knocking down bricks is likely to disturb the work below far more in angled brickwork than in normal work.

Image from Google Search

The word 'herring-bone' comes from the skeleton of a fish. As can be seen the slanted lines form a dense pattern of chevrons. This pattern has been used in construction since the Romans and its technical term is Opus

Circular brick path built by Anne, 1988

It is very common in brick paving, timber floors and also woven fabric. In fact, someone has published a blog, just about the use of Herring-bone in Interior Design

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Image from Google Search

In Brickwork, there are 3 main variations of this bond, each of which can have double bricks instead of the single bricks

Diagonal Herring Bone

Horizontal Herring Bone

Vertical Herring Bone

Double Diagonal

Double Horizontal

Double Vertical

This text needs formatting...Other alternatives are created by using different ratios. With standard bricks, the length of 1 stretcher is the same as 3 headers. For paving bricks, that ratio is often 1:2. As can be seen, American bricks are different again