We had a bit of trouble setting out the bonding for this work, because the red bricks were over-sized and the internal bricks are not tied in, but as a first attempt, I think it will look great
The Bulls Eye was completed in June '10.
Here's a photo of Carl video-recording Kelvin...
Photo taken 18th June '10
...and here's the videos...
Video taken 18th June '10
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A bull’s-eye consists of two identical semi-circular arches, but the method of constructing the lower half is quite different from turning the upper half.
Photo taken 16th April '10
The brickwork is built up to the horizontal centre line of the bull’s-eye, racking back from the extrados of the invert arch
The extrados is the outside edge of the arch and inverted means up-side-down
Image from BDA
The wall should be sufficiently high to support the timber beam from which the trammel will swing
The brickwork must be accurately lined through and plumb so that the entire circumference of the bull’s-eye will align with the completed wall
Image from Nash
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Image from Cartwright
As can be seen, the trammel can be attached to anything as long as it is secure, although these Austrialian methods tend to lack Health & Safety
Image from BDA
Photo taken 29th April '10
Photo taken 29th April '10
Image from Kreh
Wedge-shaped joints between uncut bricks in a rough-ring bull’s eye are generally considered unsightly
Image from brick stockist
Most bull’s-eyes are of axed brickwork formed by wedge-shaped bricks called voussoirs with parallel joints between.
It is possible for a skilled bricklayer to set out an axed bull’s-eye, make a cutting template and produce voussoirs by hand using a hammer, bolster and comb hammer
Bench-mounted masonry saws would be required to cut both hard and perforated bricks cleanly.
Image from Crawley bricks
However, most brickmakers can readily supply purpose-made tapered arch bricks provided they are ordered in advance
The majority of manufacturers have computer-aided design (CAD) facilities to determine the sizes of arch bricks
This post shows how a Herring-Bone Panel is designed and built. Dale is a Level 1 student and has only been laying bricks since Sept '09
Photo taken 19th May '10
Photo taken 5th May '10
This consists of bricks which are laid at 90 degrees to each other, but at 45 degrees to the horizontal plane. Such patterns may be laid vertically or horizontally
Image and text from: Nash (1988) Brickwork Vol 2 pg 76
When panels are being built with herringbone bond, great care should be taken to ensure that each pattern is kept truly level and plumb. This is done by ensuring that all of the angles are maintained in a straight lines
Image and text from:
Hodge (2006) Brickwork for Apprentices pg 96
Note the method for setting out the herring-bone bonds
This ensures cut bricks of the same size on all sides of the panel
For a small panel, the setting out must commence from the centre
For a long narrow area, the setting out can begin from the bottom
Image and text from: BDA (2005) Guide to Successful Brickwork pg 138
Build the surrounding brickwork accurately to the correct height, level, plumb and gauge. Ensure the tops of the reveals are at the same level.
Keep the opening width constant for the whole height. This is best done with a Pinch-Rod rather than relying on the plumbing.
Image and text from: BDA (2005) Guide to Successful Brickwork pg 138
On the board, mark horizontal, vertical and 45° lines through the centre point. This gives the position of the first bricks to be placed in the setting-out process.
Starting with two bricks, place all the bricks dry and accurately on the board. Any inaccuracy at this stage will be reflected in the built panel.
Image and text from: BDA (2005) Guide to Successful Brickwork pg 138
Next, transfer the outline of the board to the bottom and two sides of the dry bricks and cut the bricks to shape.
Photo taken 22nd April '10
To ensure accuracy, each cut-brick was numbered and returned to the board. The bricks were then removed as the panel was built
Photo taken 22nd April '10
After cutting the bricks to shape, place a gauge rod (cut to the width of the opening) along the bottom of the dry panel and mark the position of the cut bricks. Use the gauge rod as a template to position the bricks in the first course.
Image and text from: BDA (2005) Guide to Successful Brickwork pg 140
The laying of herringbone bond must be controlled at an angle of 45°. Traditionally a ‘boat level’ and 45° set square were used, but ‘boat levels’ are now available with adjustable vials
Photo taken 23rd April '10
Notice the position of the string line. This ensures each brick is laid accurately to gauge, level and plumb
Weep-holes were used, when setting-out this panel, to provide an accurate 10mm gap for all the mortar joints
Photo taken 23rd April '10
The BDA book also recommends the following:
Run a level line to control the top of each course. Lay the last row temporarily and mark them with a chalk line, level with the top of the reveals, and cut accurately.
Ensure mortar is of the right consistency to avoid staining from wet mortars and so that the bricks can be gently ‘rubbed’ into position.
Tapping or knocking down bricks is likely to disturb the work below far more in angled brickwork than in normal work.
Image from Google Search
The word 'herring-bone' comes from the skeleton of a fish. As can be seen the slanted lines form a dense pattern of chevrons. This pattern has been used in construction since the Romans and its technical term is Opus
Circular brick path built by Anne, 1988
It is very common in brick paving, timber floors and also woven fabric. In fact, someone has published a blog, just about the use of Herring-bone in Interior Design
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Image from Google Search
In Brickwork, there are 3 main variations of this bond, each of which can have double bricks instead of the single bricks
Diagonal Herring Bone
Horizontal Herring Bone
Vertical Herring Bone
Double Diagonal
Double Horizontal
Double Vertical
This text needs formatting...Other alternatives are created by using different ratios. With standard bricks, the length of 1 stretcher is the same as 3 headers. For paving bricks, that ratio is often 1:2. As can be seen, American bricks are different again
