21 December 2010

Welcome


Image from: Google Search
This section is for students to display their Brickwork, and maybe other stuff

Up-date 21st Dec

I have re-arranged the posts for 2010

Group A is under December
Group B is under November
19+ is under October
CITB is under September

Hopefully, this will make it easier to find your work

13 December 2010

Aaron



Photo taken 21st Dec '10
This is the T-Junction brick wall. In the middle is the header and on either side is a three-quarter brick. After that, it's just simple Stretcher Bond.

On the third course, you need to repeat the 1st course

The first course is the hardest because you need to have the correct distance from either end of the three-quarter bricks

The header and the three-quarter bricks are the same length as two full-bricks because ½ + ¾ + ¾ = 2

After the first course, the rest is easy

Aaron Allen
20. 12. 10
Well done, you have correctly identified the specific reason for this task. It is the dimensions, especially the sizes of the cuts, which maintains the bond and keep the brickwork to gauge


Brickwork designed by Anne Dec 10
An alternative bonding arrangement is shown below. Headers are grey and three-quarter bricks are shaded


Photo taken 10th Jan '11
This type of pointing takes practice, but when it is done well, it emphasises the clean lines and sharp arrises of good quality brickwork

Aaron is now constructing a window opening in a cavity wall, with a brick-on-edge cill


Photo taken 2nd Feb '11




12 December 2010

Antony



Photo taken 17th Nov '10


Brickwork designed by Antony Nov '10


Photo taken 24th Nov '10


Photo taken 29th Nov '10


Photo taken 7th Dec '10


Photo taken 15th Dec '10

11 December 2010

Kane



Photo taken 9th Nov '10


Photo taken 24th Nov '10

8 December 2010

Patrick



Photo taken 8th Dec 10
I did a wall called Flemish Bond. It consists of headers then stretchers on the same course. I also started to build a Stretcher Bond wall, which is just courses of stretchers

• Measure how long the wall is going to be
• Make a mix of mortar 5 to 1 of sand and lime,
• Add water till correct consistancy
• Put the mix onto a spot board
• Get out your tools
• Lay down the mortar on the wall
• Place the brick on top of the mortar and,
• Make sure it is to gauge and plumb

Patrick Davies
20. 12. 10

Photo taken 15th Dec 10






7 December 2010

Ibrahim



Photo taken 15th Dec '10

5 December 2010

Lee



Photo taken 9th Nov '10
I used different types of bonds on each wall. My first wall used English bond, which got bricks going up.

First thing you need is to mix mortar and make sure your working place is tidy. Then spot board. Make sure you put water on your spot board so your mortar won't stick

Then get all the tools you need around you and start building your wall. Make sure the measurements are correct. That's what I did to mine and it took me three days to finish the whole wall

The easy thing is that I had to start with putting my line on, then start laying bricks. I did not find anything difficult

Lee Mhinda
20. 12. 10

Photo taken 7th Dec '10

4 December 2010

Callum



Photo taken 7th Dec '10


Photo taken 7th Dec '10

3 December 2010

Reese



Brickwork designed by Anne Oct '10
Shaded bricks indicates cuts
The finish on the top of the wall was designed by Reece


Photo taken 8th Nov '10
Reece is building a decorative panel from Monk Bond
which is a variation of Flemish


Photo taken 15th Nov '10
Like Flemish, Monk Bond is 1-brick wide. It is one header, then two stretchers. Blocks are used for the back of the panel and these are tied into the brick pillars


Photo taken 17th Nov '10
There are some cut bricks at the ends to make it fit into the panel. These are Queen Closers and three-quarter bricks


Photo taken 29th Nov '10

On my brick and block panel, I started off with 2 courses of yellow bricks, 2 skin-thick and a 3rd course with yellow and red bricks

After the first 3 courses, I started the blockwork on the back, whilst building up the pillars on each side

After I built the block and brick pillars up to the height of the first pattern, I built the start of the panel and carried on until I reached the top of the pattern

To finish the top of my panel, I started with a course of headers in yellow and one course of yellow stretchers. I also added a course of red stretchers. To finish off the top I put a course of yellow headers and brick-on edge.

The part I found the easiest was the panel work because it was mainly laying to a line, which I find easy. The only part I found a little difficult was making sure the pillars were straight, plumb and to gauge

Reese Perks
20. 12. 10
Photo taken 15th Dec '10


2 December 2010

Conner



Photo taken 25th Dec '10

Just some writting to get the HTML code working properly, with the correct spacing before and after the image as well as no large gaps between my writting and the post provided by the student



Some words that are in a Block-quote to form an indent for the whole section and text-justifed so the edges are straight. It is in a blue colour

Blue words needs to start immediately after HTML code for colour, no gap or space bar


14 November 2010

Reece



Photo taken 18th Nov '10

10 November 2010

James & Jacob


Click diagram to enlarge


Photo taken 15th Oct '10


Photo taken 22nd Oct '10


Photo taken 22nd Oct '10


Photo taken 22nd Oct '10


Photo taken 12th Nov '10


Photo taken 18th Nov '10

8 November 2010

Ryan


Photo taken 15th Oct '10

Photo taken 22nd Oct '10


Photo taken 4th Nov '10


Photo taken 5th Nov '10


Brickwork designed by Anne Nov '10
Curves are a bit difficult to do in bricks and pixels, so this is an experiment to see what works. Some of the shapes were changed to avoid tiny cuts


Photo taken 25th Nov '10
I made a wall with the NCN logo constructed into it. I choose to do this wall because it looked a challenge and an interesting wall.

I started building up the corners of the wall on both sides so I could string a line up and run the middle of the wall.

When I had to start to make the bottom of the flag it was very difficult to make the cuts right and precise. It was difficult for all the cuts that I had to do.

When I finished my wall I was pleased to see it done and looking like the plan.

Ryan Conway
17. 12. 10

Photo taken 10th Dec '10

7 November 2010

Gareth

Step by Step
Guide of Building
A Corner on the Brick Wall

Gareth Jackson
17. 12. 10
What is the corner of my wall?

Traditionally, the corner of the brick wall is built first because it helps most bricklayers have a guide, to how they will lay the wall plumb and level. Most commonly nowadays, bricklayers lay straight across instead of building corners first. This is why it was most challenging.


Image from: Carillion (2008) Brickwork 2nd Edition page 169
I have inserted this picture to show that the corners still have to be built first, because the profiles need to be attached to something. Once these are fixed, level and to gauge, a line can be set up for the brick courses

How did I build the corner
and why it was the most challenging


First of all, I cleaned up my area and stacked enough bricks for both corners. This is always best so it saves time, which equals more time on the practical part.

Start the corner by laying one brick horizontally to the edge of the blocks. Don't worry if the corner does not hit the line. When checking for plumb, it will most probably be the blocks that are out.
Lol...me and Will built that blockwork!

I used four bricks to build the bottom and another three making an 'L' shape. To start rising, do this again for the second course, but instead of laying the first brick horizontally, lay it vertically on the blocks, which will show what half a brick looks like, when facing your brickwork


Brickwork drawn by Anne Dec 10
I have inserted this picture, to show the brick on the second course is rotated, to ensure the brickwork is half-bonded. If you lay it vertically, you'll get a soldier course

My corner was exactly five courses high with the last three courses rising up, making a pyramid shape. Each mortar gap should be no wider than 10mm or 1cm. Make sure you check every brick is level.

The reason why building the corner is the most challenging is because you are not laying to a line, so it is hard to see if your bricks are out, slanting or level with the other bricks

How could I improve and where would I use these skills?

Next time, the one thing I could have improved is making my mortar gaps to the right measurements. If they are off and one is right, one brick will be laid higher than the other.

I could use these skills in many places, from building garden walls at home to building brick sheds and just normal walls at college or work in construction
This is an excellent piece of writing. Well Done!

5 November 2010

Jamie



Photo taken 24th Nov '10


Photo taken 3rd Dec '10


Photo taken 9th Dec '10




3 November 2010

Tom & Craig



Photo taken 25th Nov '10
Brickwork designed by Craig


Photo taken 3rd Dec '10
I came to this course late and had to learn quickly.
My 1st task was to make a corner.

You must look at the drawing to make sure you know what you’re doing the whole time, to get it right. You would need to find a clean area to work. From there, you would need to make sure you load out the required bricks and mortar close by. Make sure you have got enough room to work, so it is not too tight.

To get started, you should get the correct tools for the job. Lay the 1st brick. Make sure it is plumb so then you can continue without going back to check. Check the height; you may be going too high which then requires a step-up to reach places. From there keep going back to the drawing to make sure you’re doing it correctly.

Thomas Sunderland
17. 12. 10


2 November 2010

Trevor



Photo taken 15th Oct '10
I arrived at the course a few weeks later than everyone else, but my brickwork skills, I think, are coming on well. Also my progression of understanding how to be a bricklayer are coming on strong as well.

When I start a job, I make sure I have all the tools and PPE I need ready. Also I have to load out the bricks and mortar and make sure I have enough space to work in and it's not too tight or cramped.

When I get started I lay out my bricks beforehand, each with a 10mm gap inbetween each brick, so I know exactly what I am doing before I start laying. When I lay my first brick, I make sure it is level and plumb, otherwise the rest of my work would be out and I would have to start over again.

When I have finished laying my bricks and my wall is built, I would have to point-up and clean my wall. Once I have done that I would clean my area and my tools and then pack my tools away

Trevor Walters
17. 12. 10

Photo taken 3rd Dec '10